Category Archives: Travel
Travel Diary: London/Paris
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Whew! I’ve finally unpacked, done the laundry, and gotten a decent night’s sleep, having just returned from a quick 10-day visit to two of my favorite cities.
Rather than a full travelogue – most of you are quite familiar with these locations – here are some random impressions/moments from this trip.
LONDON
Arrival Day (Hooray for British Airways Austin-London direct flight!)
- Caught the last day of the history of underwear show at the V&A. Not as titillating as one might have expected, except for the bondage-y innerwear-as-outerwear trend pieces. Grateful I don’t live in an era of wool drawers (itchy!), cone bras (remember Madonna’s?), 18” corsets that played havoc with women’s internal organs, or paniers.
- Discover I’ve forgotten melatonin. Crap. Turns out, you can’t buy it over the counter. Will tough it out with red wine or vodka before bed.
High points:
- Dinner with local friends (helps one feel less like a tourist), noting as always that Brits are wittier than Americans. Sorry, but there it is.
- Robert Rauschenberg retrospective at Tate Modern. Don’t miss if you’re in town.
- The Leopard Bar at the Montague on the Gardens hotel. I do love a leopard pattern!
- Buying a new animal-head umbrella at one of my favorite shops, James Smith Umbrellas in Bloomsbury. It’s like stepping back in time to the Victorian era, replete with walking sticks and a “vintage” salesman.
- Eating (duh) and drinking “cheap and cheerful” dreadful wine with friends.
PARIS
We spent most of our time here, and my overall sense was that people are feeling edgy and a bit under siege, although everyone we encountered was perfectly lovely.
Sadly, the city is looking a bit tired and dingy. More litter and dogs*** in the streets/on the sidewalk than I recall from the last trip two years ago. The métro is smellier. There’s almost a palpable collective Gallic shrug of “why bother?” going on.
However, we had a wonderful visit. How bad can things be when you eat croissants every day? (I recommend finding your local Eric Kayser bakery.) 
Notes:
- Love the Eurostar! So much easier than dealing with the airport. But my overlarge suitcase was very cumbersome.
- Wonderful Kiefer/Rodin show at the Musée Rodin. A fascinating “conversation” between artists of different generations looking at the same subjects.
- Want to look Parisian? Wear a scarf with everything! I felt I was passing for a native when someone stopped me on the street to ask (en français, bien sûr!) if I lived in the neighborhood. It’s good to blend in, especially these days.
- People treat you better if you carry a good handbag. Superficial but true.
- Today’s polemic: French/British children can tell a Monet from a Manet by six years old because going to museums is part of their everyday schooling, not a special event. No wonder we’re raising generations of Philistines in our country, where the arts are considered an elitist luxury and Führer Trump wants to abolish the National Endowment! If you can’t appreciate beauty, you can’t appreciate anything. OK, I’m jumping off my soapbox now.
- p.s., Where but in Paris does a shopkeeper recommend a museum exhibit? Does this happen in Chicago? I don’t think so.
- Chatting with people makes all the difference between feeling like a visitor and feeling comfortably part of your surroundings. A few moments:
- Conversation with the proprietor of vintage handbag store (specializing in 1950’s Hermès) combining her limited English with my fractured French. A delightful history lesson.
- Another Hermès moment: my husband chatting with a Saudi gentleman while his wife special-ordered various bags and I spent a tiny fraction of what she did. Although not in the same financial league, our husbands shared a laugh over the common experience of patiently waiting while their wives shopped.
- Discussing politics with taxi drivers (we’re all worried!)
- Music is a universal language. Having coffee one evening at a brasserie near our hotel, we enjoyed a playlist of Ray Charles, the late, great BB King and Tina Turner. Thumbs up all around with the owner and other patrons.
- People dress very casually at The Opéra Bastille, where we saw a beautifully sung Carmen. Glad I didn’t pack a special fancy outfit.
- Note to self: Buy booze at the Monoprix to avoid paying minibar prices. Who cares if we don’t finish it?
xo, Alisa 
Where to Retire: US Edition
A friend sent me this helpful guide the other day. Author unknown.
| You can retire to Phoenix, Arizona where…
1. You are willing to park three blocks away from your house because you found shade. OR You can retire to California where… 1. You make over $450,000 and you still can’t afford to buy a house. OR You can retire to New York City where… 1 You say “the city” and expect everyone to know you mean Manhattan. OR You can retire to Minnesota where… 1. You only have three spices: salt, pepper and ketchup. OR You can retire to The Deep South where… 6. You can say anything about anyone, as long as you say “Bless his heart” at the end. OR You can move to Colorado where… OR You can retire to Nebraska or Kansas where… OR FINALLY You can retire to Florida where…
|
Bottling Their Passion
As I’ve written before, exploring Oregon’s vineyards is one of my favorite activities when we’re on the west coast. If I didn’t have other things to do, or a lurking fear of becoming a full-fledged alcoholic, I’d be out sampling wine every week!
For winemakers Scott and Lisa Neal, the owners of Coeur de Terre (“Heart of the Earth”), winemaking is a year-round labor of love. Scott grew up on a farm in Minnesota and has always felt connected to the land. There are very few endeavors that allow for a product to be grown, made, and sold all by the same person. Even better, he’s able to see customers actually use his product—which they do with gusto.
Coeur de Terre (CdT) is one of the wineries we most enjoy visiting, and not just because the wines are excellent. It’s the particular charm of the venue, the owners, and Jacques, the tasting room master of ceremonies, that make this place a standout. Scott explains that they’ve opted not to have a tasting room in McMinnville, alongside so many other Oregon producers, because they’re interested in attracting a loyal, more serious clientele. This makes CdT a special destination unto itself, rather than something you’ll stumble upon. As Scott says, “We’re on the way to here.”
Scott and Lisa Neal at the winery
Scott and Lisa established the winery in 1998, starting with about 50 acres. Today, the serene hillside property totals 92 acres and the owners have planted all the vines on the estate. Sticklers for quality and consistency, the Neals make sure that CdT is farmed using organic and sustainable methods. Twenty-four acres are dedicated to Pinot Noir (each block having its own distinct character), along with small blocks of Syrah, Riesling and Gruner Veltliner.
Future deliciousness!
In 2014, Scott and Lisa added fifteen more acres of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, which will see its first harvest this year. Current prices range from $19-$21 for Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Rosé to $36-$40 for heritage Pinot and Syrah, with single block Pinots and older library wines at $65+. There’s truly something for everyone, and joining their wine club produces some great savings, too.
I asked Scott to share some of his favorite memories.
This is a hard one to narrow down. Some of the outstanding memories I have are the times that Lisa and I would walk the land when we first came here and dream of what Coeur de Terre would look like. Now, 16 years later, we do that same walk and see that what we were thinking about is actually here. Other memories are the time my mom was able to visit the winery and see the block that was named after her before her passing. More memories are our first open house in the cellar of the current winery where we sold our first bottle of wine, and lastly, the memory of all the great friends we have made throughout our years at CdT.
Besides developing their newly acquired property, Scott and Lisa have expanded distribution to Scott’s home state of Minnesota and hope to expand into Texas and Colorado as well. (Living most of the year in Austin, I can’t wait for that to happen.) Looking ahead even further, they hope to instill their passion for land and place in their two young daughters. Since the 8-year-old already loves to ride the tractor, I foresee generations of the Neal family producing wine well into the future.
MEET JACQUES
Another asset for Coeur de Terre is their charming direct sales manager, Jacques Rendu. The 2017 harvest will mark his 10th year anniversary working in the wine industry in Oregon’s Willamette Valley and his fifth year at CdT.
Tasting Room maestro Jacques Rendu
The Oregon wine industry is a relatively small world where 2/3 to 3/4 of the wineries are family estates. A close-knit community where everyone is very supportive of each other, Jacques has built connections with his peers through volunteering with the International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC), Oregon Pinot Camp and his work as a Board member for some of the industry’s non-profit organizations. Interestingly, Jacques says, “France gave me my palate education but it is Oregon that provided my technical winemaking and oenology training. Both are great assets when interacting with visitors or Oregon wine aficionados.”
What a cozy place to enjoy a glass or two!
One of Jacques’ most memorable experiences was hosting a catered IPNC seminar at CdT with French and American winemakers and attendees from all over the world. For a family winery with a small staff, this event was not only a great honor but also a logistical challenge. Only at the end did they discover that one of the guests was the wine buyer for the White House. He had served under the last three Presidents at the time and after tasting Scott and Lisa’s wine told them he wanted to order one to be featured at the White House. Impressive.
PLANTING THE SEEDS OF FRIENDSHIP
Jacques’ enthusiasm and knowledge are as contagious as his smile. We always learn something new – such as when a particular wine will be at its peak – and get menu inspiration for what food to serve with whatever we’re buying. Jacques has hosted guests from as far away as Portugal, Sweden, Denmark, France, Germany, Africa, Argentina, Chile, Brazil, Mexico, Australia, New Zealand and, most recently, Japan. He says, “Wine is an amazing ‘cultural’ exchange vehicle.” Forget that old Coke jingle… imagine if the world could just sit down and have a glass of wine together!
Some of these simple tastings have resulted in long-lasting relationships. Total strangers the first time, visitors often leave with something more than a few bottles; they leave with great memories and a fondness for a special winery.
Scott explains the fine points of Pinot
SIDE NOTE FOR TEXANS
Coeur de Terre will be part of next week’s Pinot in The City events with other Willamette Valley wineries taking place January 24, 2017 in Dallas and January 26 in Austin. Scott will be there.
Cheers, Alisa
[Not a sponsored post. Attributed photos courtesy of Coeur de Terre.]
Mysteries of Coastal Living
The Oregon coast is one of the most stunning places on earth. Here, you can contemplate the mysteries of the universe as you stroll down the beach, hike through majestic forests or marvel at a gorgeous sunset.
My mind tends to wander towards the more prosaic:
Why are there 15 bead and glass blowing shops but only one car wash?
Why can’t we get decent Internet and phone service?
Are the whales actually showing off, or are they oblivious?
What makes plants grow this huge?
Why is there no decent pizzeria when so many families with children visit and live in the area?
How does the place serving truly horrible pizza stay in business?
Why do the blackberry bushes have more brambles than blackberries?
When is Walgreen’s pharmacy actually closed for lunch?
Why do people visit a beautiful place and then litter?
Why is there only one liquor store when there are so many local drunks, visitors, and drunken visitors?
Why are there so few doctors in an area where there are so many seniors?
How long will it take us to visit all 500 wineries in Oregon wine country?
Why won’t some dog owners pick up their dog’s poop unless someone’s watching?
How do all the t-shirt stores make money?
What does the Christmas store do the rest of the year?
Why does the landscape guy only show up after we’ve mowed the lawn?
And mostly… why does summer have to be so damn short?!
Winning Wines
Oregon has nearly 700 wineries and I’m making it my personal mission to go to every one of them. It’s my literal (spit-) bucket list.
I’m certainly no expert but I’ve had a lot of experience drinking and that should count for something, right?
The first full summer we spent out here on the coast was the year I fractured my pelvis in a freak accident falling off some seaweed-covered rocks near the tide pools. After being carried off the beach up a very steep hill on a stretcher, transported 2+ hours away to Portland for complex surgery only two doctors in the state can perform, and finally getting back to the coast, I discovered something useful: Wine tasting is a sport you can enjoy even if you’re on crutches. Yippee!
Anyway, over the past four years, my husband and I have driven to wineries north near Portland, further north to the Columbia Gorge (both Oregon and Washington vineyards), south near Eugene, and closest to home in the McMinnville AVA, one of the six micro-climates of the Willamette Valley.
In case you were wondering, Oregon has 18 approved winegrowing regions, and more than 1000 vineyards utilizing 72 varieties of grapes. The Willamette Valley’s climate (cool, wet winters; warm, dry summers) is especially well suited to the early-ripening Pinot Noir grape, for which Oregon wineries are deservedly famous.
Turns out, McMinnville boasts one of our favorites.
Yamhill Valley Vineyards is the oldest winery in the McMinnville AVA, established in 1983. They grow, produce and bottle all their own grapes on a beautiful 150-acre estate in the rolling foothills of Oregon’s Coast Range Mountains–an hour southwest of Portland–with a focus on Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling.
True oenophiles will want to know about their plantings (200-700’ elevation), soil (marine sedimentary and volcanic soils), capacity (20,000 cases), barrels (produced in France and Oregon and never more than 20% new oak), climate (35” annual rainfall), awards (many; beginning with their 1983 Pinot Noir, the first place preference at New York City’s famous Wine Center) and so forth.
Here’s my more lowbrow description:
Yamhill Valley offers several delicious wines (currently, eight — also available online) in a remarkably peaceful and relaxing setting. They have a range of prices (from about $18-$75), so if wine isn’t your idea of a serious investment you can still find something yummy without breaking the bank. Compared to some other wineries we’ve visited, a tasting flight is generous and reasonably priced, too.
You can take your wine outside to the patio and gaze at the vineyards, or stay inside and chat with Linda Arnold, the delightful tasting room manager. Linda is warm, funny, and knowledgeable and you’ll feel like a dear friend on your first visit. (If you’ve ever had the experience of dealing with a snooty wine sommelier, you’ll appreciate her down-to-earth approach.)
Another thing I appreciate: Their tasting sheet doesn’t just clue you in on flavors and aromas, it also explains why certain wines have specific characteristics and suggests appropriate food pairings. All in all, Yamhill Valley is a sophisticated experience that doesn’t take itself too seriously. My kind of place.
If you’re up in Portland, drop in to another place that doesn’t take itself too seriously: Jeff Weissler’s Pairings wine shop, bar and classroom. Pairings’ mission is to make learning about wine fun and approachable, so they offer classes and events as well as shopping options that match wine “personalities” with everything from food to movie characters, moods, animals or astrological signs. Good wines, good times… and lots of laughs while you’re learning from the experts.
Cheers! [As always, not a sponsored post.]
Road Trip!
We’re headed north for a few days. These are some of the reasons I’m glad we’re driving instead of flying:
- I can pack all the shoes I might “need”
- There are no fidgety kids kicking my seat from behind
- I can open a window without being sucked out into space
- I can take normal size shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, lotion, contact lens solution, moisturizer, sunblock and makeup without having to decant it into leaky little bottles
- Nobody will be bringing stinky food on board (doesn’t that just frost your cupcake?!)
- My suitcase can’t fall on my head
Have a great weekend!
L.A. Confidential
After a whirlwind few days in Los Angeles (my husband had a work-related event), it’s nice to be back in Oregon.
The two places couldn’t be more different. So in honor of the recent primary, I’d like to share some observations. In the tradition of all the news shows, the following statistics are entirely made up:
- Percentage of people wearing flannel shirts in L.A.: 0%
- Percentage of people wearing flannel shirts in coastal Oregon: 93%
- Percentage of women in Beverly Hills who have had visible work done: 95.7%
- Percentage of women in coastal Oregon who have had visible work done: 1%
- Percentage of men in L.A. who color their hair: 88%
- Percentage of men in coastal Oregon who color their hair: 0.25% (and only because they accidentally splashed some bleach on it while cleaning the garage)
Beverly Hills in particular is its own little world. It’s always fun to hang out, do a little cultural anthropology (i.e., shopping) and catch up with friends and family in the area. A few weekend highlights:
Discovered a wonderful Italian restaurant I have to recommend to you: Sfixio at 9737 Santa Monica Blvd. in Beverly Hills. We had dinner there on Friday, when the place was uncharacteristically deserted – everyone was apparently glued to their TV watching the NBA playoffs – so it was like dining at a very chic friend’s house whose husband happens to be an incredible cook.
Mara, the hostess, hails from Milan and her husband, Chef Massimo from Florence, is the gifted visionary in the kitchen. The menu proudly proclaims that the restaurant has no freezer, and you can tell from the bright fresh flavors of the food that everything has been purchased and prepared only moments ago.
We ordered a lot (portions are comfortable but not huge) so we could share everything, including a luscious bottle of wine that Mara suggested. First up, a delicious artichoke salad of thin-sliced baby artichokes (hand sliced by Massimo; no fancy-schmancy mandoline for this purist!) and baby arugula dressed with a light touch of lemon, zingy olive oil and shaved parmegiano reggiano.
Our other appetizer was an eggplant parmigiana that will make you re-think all the gloppy Americanized eggplant parm you’ve ever tasted. Chef Massimo elevates this dish by simplifying its preparation. Super-fresh thin slices of eggplant are tender and flavorful with no hint of bitterness, sauced with beautiful, lightly seasoned crushed tomatoes and a luxurious helping of velvety burrata.
We followed up with a gorgeously fresh grilled branzino and a mixed seafood grill – again, skillfully prepared, deceptively simple and phenomenally delicious. No dessert, just some of Mara’s own homemade limoncello – also fantastic.
I’m no expert or even a serious foodie, but I’ve eaten some great meals around the world and this was one to remember. Can’t wait to return next time we’re in L.A. Check out Sfixio’s reviews on yelp and tripadvisor when you’re in the area.
Above: the wine Mara recommended
Saturday, my husband was working and I had the day to myself. Surprise – I went shopping. One of my favorite things to do in Beverly Hills is roam around the department stores (Neiman Marcus, Barney’s, Saks), marvel at bad wind-tunnel plastic surgery, and eavesdrop on conversations.
The best snapshot of the day – a conversation I heard only part of – consisted of one woman telling her two companions about a couple she’d seen:
“…The bride and groom were on scooters, and they were both wearing Mickey Mouse hats and T-shirts. He had on black socks….” For the rest of the day I wondered if the newlyweds were on their way to the chapel, had actually gotten married in those outfits, or dress like this all the time. And, mostly, were these famous Mouseketeers or just fanatics?
Anyway, back to shopping. I “had” to drop by Hermès to check out scarves (you know how I love my scarves) and spent about two hours prowling around the store and chatting with my completely charming Belgian sales associate, Olivier. Should you be in the market for Hermès anything and happen to be in Beverly Hills, he’s your guy!
Besides being extremely personable and patient, Olivier shared interesting stories about the brand so I completely justify my shopping as having been an educational experience.
I learned, for instance, that every bag comes with an assigned box and even if it’s dented or imperfect they do not have extras. This is, I assume, a very smart strategy to make sure nobody asks for one and then goes off to sell a replica purse in an authentic box. Olivier also told me that Hermès stores cannot order or ship bags (or anything? I forgot to qualify) unless the products are purchased in store. Every store maintains its own inventory so the sales associate can’t, for instance, look in the system and find you another color somewhere else. Who knew? Good thing there’s a website.
The rest of the weekend was spent socializing, checking out LACMA (the Los Angeles County Museum of Art) and the Getty Museum (both currently have exhibits of Robert Mapplethorpe’s photography including the S&M stuff), visiting with my daughter and her boyfriend who’d just spent time in Ecuador and Peru and, naturally, eating.
Ray’s/Stark at LACMA is quite excellent, especially for a museum restaurant. Check out their salad of black kale, grapefruit, golden raisins, ricotta salata and creamy lemon vinaigrette – or create it yourself at home. (I’m doing that later.)
Sunday night provided an opportunity to catch up with friends in our age group – a casual dinner for four in their art-filled downtown loft. After all the frou-frou of Beverly Hills, it was particularly refreshing to have a no-bullshit, down-to-earth conversation.
You know how when you’re younger, a friend might say, “Your hair looks great”? At our age, my friend says, “I love your hair color”. Because, who are we kidding… there’s no use pretending I come by these highlights naturally!
The conversation inevitably turned to the big issues: retirement, where do we all want to live, aging parents and our travel bucket lists. Our friends are off to Japan and Vietnam next week; after all the rushing around (and fighting L.A. traffic), we were happy to get on a plane and return to the land of flannel.
Do’s and Don’ts for Your Visit to Lisbon, Porto and Beyond
For my last post about our recent trip to Portugal, I was inspired by the wonderful photography and stories of blogger The Insatiable Traveler and want to share some of my photos along with a few suggestions and observations.
DO pack hiking boots or sturdy shoes to manage the steep hills. I can’t say this enough!
DO eat a hearty breakfast. All our hotels included lavish buffets in the room rate, which set us up perfectly for a day of exploring.
DON’T be intimidated if you don’t speak Portuguese. Learn a few key phrases and politely ask someone if he or she speaks English. Most do, especially in the larger cities.
DON’T speak Spanish instead. There’s a long history of discord with Spain, and Portuguese is not a dialect but its own distinct language.
DO venture into grocery stores. I love seeing how local products are different from the brands I get at home, and people are friendly and helpful.
DO rent a car and tour the beautiful countryside.
DON’T expect world-class museums. If you’re used to the Louvre, Prado, British Museum, Met or Uffizi, you’ll find museums in Lisbon to be charming but not on the same level.
DON’T forget to look up, down and sideways. Many buildings still retain their original azulejos (tiles) and the cobbled streets often have intricate designs.
DON’T you wish your commute was this stunning? The São Bento train station in Porto is covered with tiles depicting festivals, transportation and historic scenes.
DO visit the port lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia and go wine tasting in the Douro Valley.
DO try vinho verde, the light, refreshing “green” wine that’s young and slightly effervescent.
DON’T expect high-end shopping. Instead, splurge on local crafts and designers.
DO bring home some hand-painted pottery. Prices are way lower than in the States and the quality is magnificent.
DO have lunch at Casa do Leão when you’re exploring the Castel São Jorge in Lisbon. The food is good and the view over the city is spectacular.
DO visit historic Coimbra, a short drive from Lisbon. It’s home to one of the world’s oldest universities — worth the trip for the ornate chapel and examination hall, medieval library (which maintains a bat colony to eat insects that could destroy the books) and academic prison, where misbehaving students served time. (Good thing this wasn’t my alma mater!)
DO try local specialties, such as porco à alentejana, an unlikely but delicious combination of chopped pork and tiny clams.
DO ride the tram (especially #28), an inexpensive way to tour Lisbon. However, DON’T bother with the pedi-cabs unless you negotiate a price; they can be more costly than a taxi.
DO visit the markets for the vast array of produce, snacks or lunch among the locals, and great people watching.
DO be aware that tips aren’t generally included in the bill. Leave 10%.
DON’T plan on eating dinner early, though it won’t be as late as in Spain. Most restaurants, even in hotels, open around 7:30 p.m.
DO have a fantastic trip and tell us all about it!
Many Ports in a Storm
If, like me, your idea of vacation involves good food and booze, I recommend you spend a couple of days in Porto, Portugal, the beautiful port city famous for port wine (duh).
Technically, we were actually staying in Vila Nova de Gaia on the other side of the Douro River, where – happily – the major port tasting rooms happen to be. We pulled up to The Yeatman, a grand hotel that fairly screams (in a quiet, elegant way) British Colonial Privilege. With its stunning views over the old town and river, it’s described on Trip Advisor as “majestic”, “gorgeous”, “amazing” and “spectacular” with “excellent service”, and it did not disappoint. Having spent 3+ hours in the car driving from Lisbon, we were anxious to get out and explore (code for “drink”).
We strolled down the steep streets to the water’s edge (be warned, it’s a LONG hike back up, especially if you’ve indulged in some wine tasting) to get the party started. Here’s a highly simplified introduction to port, for those of us (a.k.a., me) who didn’t know much about it:
Port is a sweet, fortified wine that’s created when fermentation is interrupted by the addition of brandy, which maintains the residual sugar of the grapes. It’s produced exclusively in the Douro Valley and is regulated by the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto. Portuguese winemakers blend a variety of grapes, each adding its own character and flavor, including Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Tinta Barroca and Tinta Cão.
The primary families are white, tawny and ruby.
- White, made from white grapes, ages for at least three years in wood casks
- Tawny is made from red grapes that age in wood casks, gradually attaining its characteristic golden brown color. Tawny is always a blend of wines that have aged for different amounts of time, averaging the age (e.g., 10, 20, 30 years) shown on the label. Taste for notes of caramel and nut
- Ruby maintains the fruit, color and strength of young wines. Expect berry and chocolate flavors
- Vintage is produced from a single year’s harvest and bottled two years later. Not every year is considered good enough to be “vintage”. It improves as it ages in the bottle and a good bottle can be enjoyed decades later
- Reserve is similar to Vintage though it’s bottled later and is generally best to drink soon after release
- LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) is bottled 4-6 years after the harvest. It can be left to age (though only for a few years) but is ready to drink when released
All should be served at a cool room temperature, about 60°F. Port’s inherent sweetness lends itself to pairings with many types of cheese; desserts with fruit, chocolate or caramel; nuts; even barbecue or other sweet/smoky foods. Check out more suggestions and info at Wine Folly’s excellent website.
We only stopped at three tasting rooms since there’s a limit to how much sweet wine either of us could drink in an afternoon, and trudged back up the hill to relax at The Yeatman’s indoor infinity pool with views of the river, plus a curious peacock out on the lawn who couldn’t figure out why he couldn’t peck his way into the spa.
We concluded Day One with dinner at the Yeatman’s Michelin-starred restaurant, which began with several chef’s “surprises” (below, four of the 13 courses)
I’m sorry to report that after eating such a rich meal, both my husband and I — “surprise!”– were hugging the toilet bowl a few hours later. But even though that was about $350 literally down the drain, I’d still rate it a memorable experience. Especially if your stomach is stronger than mine.
A few random travel tips for your next adventure:
- Pack a sleep aid (acetaminophen PM or prescription) if you have trouble adjusting to a new bed, room temperature, etc.
- Always have snacks and chewable antacids on hand. Traveling with me is like traveling with a toddler; I get REALLY cranky when I’m hungry.
- Have an extra book on hand in case of delays.
- Pack a corkscrew for that “emergency” bottle of wine to keep in your hotel room.
- Carry a magnifying glass so you can read the teeny-tiny street names on maps.
- One of my favorite products is Pure Illumination, a light-up lip gloss/ lip moisturizer with a mirror that also doubles as a night light.
Oh, and in case you’re wondering, I don’t get paid by any of the companies or products I mention; they’re just things I want to share with you. Bon voyage!
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